No kebab shop is perfect.

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No kebab shop is perfect.

People who are traveling or working in other places will occasionally have a subtle psychology when eating barbecue. Simply put, it is: "I can’t figure out why there is no such thing?"

"This" refers to something from snacks to big food. It’s delicious to simply bake it, but it’s not on the barbecue stall here.

Of course, there are some foods with local characteristics that local people can figure out, such as roasted milk tofu and dried apricots in Inner Mongolia and roasted melons in Yunnan. But some universal foods are not used as kebabs, so it always feels incredible. Take butter, for example. Where is it? But Hunan people can make roasted butter into a special feature of Xiangxi skewers.

The tip of the chicken wings and the treasure in the palm that southerners like are moved up to the thicker roast chicken wings in the north … Since the wings of the chicken have been broken, why only keep its biceps brachii, and why not roast the tip of the chicken wings separately? I don’t understand 

Barbecue is the most primitive cooking method of human beings, unlike famous dishes from all over the world, which need to be passed down by chefs. Most of us have the first impression of barbecue, that is, the stall in front of our house. Simply baking it and brushing the seasoning can appease the young taste buds. So I preconceived that barbecues should be the same everywhere. Even if you don’t have any favorite ingredients, just tell your boss that it should be ready in two days.

When I grew up and "wandered" to other cities, I found that there were many barbecue sects in various places, and the difference was too great. A Guizhou native said that he thought that all the places ate broken ears, baked potatoes, and dipped them in dip with broken ears.

But the reality is cruel, this wonderful food is rejected by many people, and the barbecue stall owner who opens the door to do business is even more afraid to expect it, and is good at providing it. One more thing is better than one less thing.

There is also the local litsea oil, which has a special fragrance similar to the combination of pepper and ginger. Eat sour soup rice at the barbecue stall and drop a few drops. This meal is complete. He once ordered a kebab at his home in Beijing and dropped a little on it himself, but it didn’t taste like that.

Muttered with colleagues: "It’s obviously very simple. Why don’t you just buy some folded ears in the store and cut them?"

A colleague from Sichuan, a neighboring province, told him: "These two things taste too remote, and it is easy to understand if they are not cooked in other provinces. Last time I went to Hangzhou on business, I asked my boss if he had baked konjac at midnight. The boss’s eyes are wide open. Can that thing be baked? "

He is also full of grievances, and he looks at the menu. Apart from meat or meat, in fact, he simply needs to put on a large piece of konjac with two bamboo sticks, put it on the fire, sprinkle some ingredients, and eat it when the temperature is up.

When eating, it’s just like eating a hot tongue, and it doesn’t gain weight. Why isn’t there a barbecue stall outside? And ribs, why can’t they be baked with green peppers? He didn’t think that such a large piece of ingredients as konjac would cost an extra piece to string together, which would lead to high cost over time and not be able to sell like meat. Northeast China and North China are rich in meat sources and good in meat quality. Red meat alone can be divided into crisp bones, meat tendons, plate tendons, kebabs, oily edges, chest, heart-protecting meat and many other points. The boss doesn’t have to go to so much trouble to make a bunch of trivial vegetarian dishes.

As for the double peaks of green peppers and ribs, it is a common sight for Sichuanese. On the other hand, it seems that the boss has a bad mind in order to reduce costs: "It is obvious that there can be eight pieces of meat on a string, and now half of them are replaced with green peppers!"

These seem completely negligible in business, and the subtle differences are very different on everyone’s tongue.

Linyi said: Before she went to Beijing, the definition of barbecue was fried skewers with pancakes, grilled starfish, and baked hairy eggs that her mother took her to a stall and ate around a small stove. Hairy eggs and live beads are not suitable for pictures, and some places, such as Nanjing, like them very much. People who don’t love them are scared to death when they hear that there are half-formed chickens in them. This classmate said: when I have money, I must open a pure barbecue restaurant in our hometown, and people who can’t eat baked eggs are not allowed to enter.

There are also stone eggs, also called real eggs, which are made by opening a small hole in the egg, pouring out the contents, stirring evenly like coffee, adding edible alkali like coffee with sugar, and continuing to stir evenly, so that the egg will turn pale green, then pouring the stirred egg liquid into the egg shell, and a cup of egg kabuqi (shi) will be finished, then steaming and solidifying, and then baking on the shelf.

Like the roast chicken rack, all the local people are in full swing, but the food is not popular all over the country.

Northeasters can’t get used to barbecues without dried tofu in the south. There are too many kinds of bean products in the barbecue stalls in the south, such as vegetarian chicken, thick bean skin, wrapped bean curd, etc., which are roasted with fire, and what you want is the feeling that it tastes like meat but not meat.

Dried tofu can only be sidelined. Southerners will think it is too thin and dry. Barbecue stalls were originally not made. Later, because of the large population circulation between the north and the south, it was crept on the menu. However, if dried tofu is not brushed with thick sauce, it will taste a little less charming.

The joys and sorrows of human beings are not interlinked, and so is their knowledge. What is taken for granted in one place becomes "inexplicable surprise" in another place.

In A String of Life, Chongqing’s roasted brain flowers and Xuzhou’s roasted sheep’s eyes are also counted as "dark dishes", which makes people all over the country feel "incredibly wild". People in Sichuan and Chongqing and Xuzhou only think that they are noisy.

People in Sichuan and Chongqing still eat rabbits. What’s surprising about brain flowers? So they can’t press the table. When Xuzhou people go to other places to eat barbecue, they will sigh like plum blossoms, one sigh that there is no roasted sheep ball, the other sigh that there is no roasted sheep eye, and the third sigh that it is not suitable for handmade noodles. Xuzhou has the habit of eating sheep, and the whole dog days last for more than a month, which is the Fu Yang Festival. I was fascinated by eating sheep. It was a pity that so many sheep only made mutton soup, so they pondered the barbecue.

The barbecue is more finely divided, just like Chaoshan people eat beef in countless parts. In addition to sheep balls and sheep eyes, the local barbecue shop also has a stretched belly of sheep, which is the meat near the ribs of sheep, which has both muscle, lean meat and fat, and is delicious in three. Xuzhou people are located in the north and south, and their eating habits are mixed with rice and flour. Barbecue with handmade noodles or steamed buns is a matter of course, as if the barbecue in the world should be eaten like this, and people in South China will feel choked.

Chongqing people don’t understand why foreigners don’t eat roasted skin (more recently), and Yunnan people don’t understand the absence of roast chicken tendons. What everyone thinks is: "It’s obvious that it’s enough to put it on the fire. Why don’t foreign barbecue shops sell it, even if they have a chat?"

Some people have begun experiments to eliminate these inconspicuous but crucial differences. Now, roasted butter has been popularized in first-tier cities, and roasted skin has also radiated outward along the periphery of Chongqing. Of course, the farthest one must be the northeast barbecue. Recently, in Shenzhen, I ate a good Qiqihar barbecue, an iron plate with pork belly, beef, sauerkraut, peanuts and Chili powder.

The boss is from the northeast and asked him how he thought of opening this store. He said, "The seafood barbecue here is not delicious. I thought, barbecue should be like my home, so I just opened one. "

The story of Hegang skewers in Beijing is similar. Hegang barbecue is mainly made of cattle, with small pieces of meat, and the characteristic is "medium rare". When the local school was over, the chef of kebabs began to open and sold them to students, who didn’t have any pocket money, so the meat slices were cut thin and small.

When Hegang people arrived in Beijing, how do you think the beef here is cut into such a big piece? It’s not tasty yet There are few kinds. The local kinds are raw tendons, cooked tendons, plank tendons, meat tendons, bright tendons, beef heart tube, beef chest, beef bone marrow, beef slices and beef tendon … The fineness is also catching up with Chaoshan beef pot.

The same idea: "The barbecue should be like my home." Later, Hegang people simply drove themselves.

If we want to combine the imagination of people from all over the world about barbecue shops, we will make a perfect barbecue shop. Stocking should be like this: master Xinjiang is in charge of docking excellent meat sources, master Xuzhou is in charge of distributing mutton, master Hegang is in charge of distributing beef, master Sichuan or Chongqing is in charge of pork (mainly dealing with fat intestines and brain flowers, as well as pig meat in Liangshan), and another master Yunnan is in charge of roasting chicken skin, chicken feet, chicken tendons and bean products, and learning from Mala Tang Store to purchase vegetarian chicken, tofu skin, dried orchids, chiba tofu, dried tofu and konjac. Vegetarian dishes such as leeks, cauliflower, eggplant, potatoes, lotus root slices, Flammulina velutipes, green peppers and rice cakes can satisfy 90% of China diners.

As for the grilled seafood, then give it to the Guangdong master.

However, this seasoning is difficult. Some people want to eat pickled meat, some like fresh meat, and some people like spicy and cumin. The spicy taste in Sichuan, Chongqing and Yunnan is different. Northeastern people prefer sweet and spicy and brush sauce, and the dip is unique and elegant. Fuzhou people’s barbecue also has a red bad taste. It is also difficult to match the staple food. Xi ‘an people’s steamed buns, Xuzhou people’s boiled buns, Shandong people’s pancakes, and northeast baked wheat cakes are all eaten with barbecue and have to be imported from different places.

Obviously a very simple thing, away from home, is not. This is the meaning of hometown and the reason why there is no perfect barbecue restaurant in the world.

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