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People who are traveling or working in other places will occasionally have a subtle psychology when eating barbecue. Simply put, it is: "I can’t figure out why there is no such thing?"

"This" refers to something from snacks to big food. It’s delicious to simply bake it, but it’s not on the barbecue stall here.

Of course, there are some foods with local characteristics that local people can figure out, such as roasted milk tofu and dried apricots in Inner Mongolia and roasted melons in Yunnan. But some universal foods are not used as kebabs, so it always feels incredible. Take butter, for example. Where is it? But Hunan people can make roasted butter into a special feature of Xiangxi skewers.

The tip of the chicken wings and the treasure in the palm that southerners like are moved up to the thicker roast chicken wings in the north … Since the wings of the chicken have been broken, why only keep its biceps brachii, and why not roast the tip of the chicken wings separately? I don’t understand　

Barbecue is the most primitive cooking method of human beings, unlike famous dishes from all over the world, which need to be passed down by chefs. Most of us have the first impression of barbecue, that is, the stall in front of our house. Simply baking it and brushing the seasoning can appease the young taste buds. So I preconceived that barbecues should be the same everywhere. Even if you don’t have any favorite ingredients, just tell your boss that it should be ready in two days.

When I grew up and "wandered" to other cities, I found that there were many barbecue sects in various places, and the difference was too great. A Guizhou native said that he thought that all the places ate broken ears, baked potatoes, and dipped them in dip with broken ears.

But the reality is cruel, this wonderful food is rejected by many people, and the barbecue stall owner who opens the door to do business is even more afraid to expect it, and is good at providing it. One more thing is better than one less thing.

There is also the local litsea oil, which has a special fragrance similar to the combination of pepper and ginger. Eat sour soup rice at the barbecue stall and drop a few drops. This meal is complete. He once ordered a kebab at his home in Beijing and dropped a little on it himself, but it didn’t taste like that.

Muttered with colleagues: "It’s obviously very simple. Why don’t you just buy some folded ears in the store and cut them?"

A colleague from Sichuan, a neighboring province, told him: "These two things taste too remote, and it is easy to understand if they are not cooked in other provinces. Last time I went to Hangzhou on business, I asked my boss if he had baked konjac at midnight. The boss’s eyes are wide open. Can that thing be baked? "

He is also full of grievances, and he looks at the menu. Apart from meat or meat, in fact, he simply needs to put on a large piece of konjac with two bamboo sticks, put it on the fire, sprinkle some ingredients, and eat it when the temperature is up.

When eating, it’s just like eating a hot tongue, and it doesn’t gain weight. Why isn’t there a barbecue stall outside? And ribs, why can’t they be baked with green peppers? He didn’t think that such a large piece of ingredients as konjac would cost an extra piece to string together, which would lead to high cost over time and not be able to sell like meat. Northeast China and North China are rich in meat sources and good in meat quality. Red meat alone can be divided into crisp bones, meat tendons, plate tendons, kebabs, oily edges, chest, heart-protecting meat and many other points. The boss doesn’t have to go to so much trouble to make a bunch of trivial vegetarian dishes.

As for the double peaks of green peppers and ribs, it is a common sight for Sichuanese. On the other hand, it seems that the boss has a bad mind in order to reduce costs: "It is obvious that there can be eight pieces of meat on a string, and now half of them are replaced with green peppers!"

These seem completely negligible in business, and the subtle differences are very different on everyone’s tongue.

Linyi said: Before she went to Beijing, the definition of barbecue was fried skewers with pancakes, grilled starfish, and baked hairy eggs that her mother took her to a stall and ate around a small stove. Hairy eggs and live beads are not suitable for pictures, and some places, such as Nanjing, like them very much. People who don’t love them are scared to death when they hear that there are half-formed chickens in them. This classmate said: when I have money, I must open a pure barbecue restaurant in our hometown, and people who can’t eat baked eggs are not allowed to enter.

There are also stone eggs, also called real eggs, which are made by opening a small hole in the egg, pouring out the contents, stirring evenly like coffee, adding edible alkali like coffee with sugar, and continuing to stir evenly, so that the egg will turn pale green, then pouring the stirred egg liquid into the egg shell, and a cup of egg kabuqi (shi) will be finished, then steaming and solidifying, and then baking on the shelf.

Like the roast chicken rack, all the local people are in full swing, but the food is not popular all over the country.

Northeasters can’t get used to barbecues without dried tofu in the south. There are too many kinds of bean products in the barbecue stalls in the south, such as vegetarian chicken, thick bean skin, wrapped bean curd, etc., which are roasted with fire, and what you want is the feeling that it tastes like meat but not meat.

Dried tofu can only be sidelined. Southerners will think it is too thin and dry. Barbecue stalls were originally not made. Later, because of the large population circulation between the north and the south, it was crept on the menu. However, if dried tofu is not brushed with thick sauce, it will taste a little less charming.

The joys and sorrows of human beings are not interlinked, and so is their knowledge. What is taken for granted in one place becomes "inexplicable surprise" in another place.

In A String of Life, Chongqing’s roasted brain flowers and Xuzhou’s roasted sheep’s eyes are also counted as "dark dishes", which makes people all over the country feel "incredibly wild". People in Sichuan and Chongqing and Xuzhou only think that they are noisy.

People in Sichuan and Chongqing still eat rabbits. What’s surprising about brain flowers? So they can’t press the table. When Xuzhou people go to other places to eat barbecue, they will sigh like plum blossoms, one sigh that there is no roasted sheep ball, the other sigh that there is no roasted sheep eye, and the third sigh that it is not suitable for handmade noodles. Xuzhou has the habit of eating sheep, and the whole dog days last for more than a month, which is the Fu Yang Festival. I was fascinated by eating sheep. It was a pity that so many sheep only made mutton soup, so they pondered the barbecue.

The barbecue is more finely divided, just like Chaoshan people eat beef in countless parts. In addition to sheep balls and sheep eyes, the local barbecue shop also has a stretched belly of sheep, which is the meat near the ribs of sheep, which has both muscle, lean meat and fat, and is delicious in three. Xuzhou people are located in the north and south, and their eating habits are mixed with rice and flour. Barbecue with handmade noodles or steamed buns is a matter of course, as if the barbecue in the world should be eaten like this, and people in South China will feel choked.

Chongqing people don’t understand why foreigners don’t eat roasted skin (more recently), and Yunnan people don’t understand the absence of roast chicken tendons. What everyone thinks is: "It’s obvious that it’s enough to put it on the fire. Why don’t foreign barbecue shops sell it, even if they have a chat?"

Some people have begun experiments to eliminate these inconspicuous but crucial differences. Now, roasted butter has been popularized in first-tier cities, and roasted skin has also radiated outward along the periphery of Chongqing. Of course, the farthest one must be the northeast barbecue. Recently, in Shenzhen, I ate a good Qiqihar barbecue, an iron plate with pork belly, beef, sauerkraut, peanuts and Chili powder.

The boss is from the northeast and asked him how he thought of opening this store. He said, "The seafood barbecue here is not delicious. I thought, barbecue should be like my home, so I just opened one. "

The story of Hegang skewers in Beijing is similar. Hegang barbecue is mainly made of cattle, with small pieces of meat, and the characteristic is "medium rare". When the local school was over, the chef of kebabs began to open and sold them to students, who didn’t have any pocket money, so the meat slices were cut thin and small.

When Hegang people arrived in Beijing, how do you think the beef here is cut into such a big piece? It’s not tasty yet There are few kinds. The local kinds are raw tendons, cooked tendons, plank tendons, meat tendons, bright tendons, beef heart tube, beef chest, beef bone marrow, beef slices and beef tendon … The fineness is also catching up with Chaoshan beef pot.

The same idea: "The barbecue should be like my home." Later, Hegang people simply drove themselves.

If we want to combine the imagination of people from all over the world about barbecue shops, we will make a perfect barbecue shop. Stocking should be like this: master Xinjiang is in charge of docking excellent meat sources, master Xuzhou is in charge of distributing mutton, master Hegang is in charge of distributing beef, master Sichuan or Chongqing is in charge of pork (mainly dealing with fat intestines and brain flowers, as well as pig meat in Liangshan), and another master Yunnan is in charge of roasting chicken skin, chicken feet, chicken tendons and bean products, and learning from Mala Tang Store to purchase vegetarian chicken, tofu skin, dried orchids, chiba tofu, dried tofu and konjac. Vegetarian dishes such as leeks, cauliflower, eggplant, potatoes, lotus root slices, Flammulina velutipes, green peppers and rice cakes can satisfy 90% of China diners.

As for the grilled seafood, then give it to the Guangdong master.

However, this seasoning is difficult. Some people want to eat pickled meat, some like fresh meat, and some people like spicy and cumin. The spicy taste in Sichuan, Chongqing and Yunnan is different. Northeastern people prefer sweet and spicy and brush sauce, and the dip is unique and elegant. Fuzhou people’s barbecue also has a red bad taste. It is also difficult to match the staple food. Xi ‘an people’s steamed buns, Xuzhou people’s boiled buns, Shandong people’s pancakes, and northeast baked wheat cakes are all eaten with barbecue and have to be imported from different places.

Obviously a very simple thing, away from home, is not. This is the meaning of hometown and the reason why there is no perfect barbecue restaurant in the world.

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　　On April 5, US President Trump issued a statement saying that he had instructed the US Trade Representative to consider whether it was appropriate to impose tariffs on $100 billion of China goods under Section 301. Earlier, based on the results of the "301 Survey", the Office of the US Trade Representative announced on the 3rd a list of China’s proposed goods to be subject to additional tariffs, involving the import of goods worth about $50 billion from China every year. In this regard, China immediately imposed tariffs on some products imported from the United States, and took countermeasures of the same scale, amount and intensity. This shows that the Sino-US trade friction has escalated sharply into a conflict, and the Sino-US trade war will be on the verge.

　　However, interestingly, after Trump’s ravings, White House officials rushed to "put out the fire", first helping to explain that Trump’s $100 billion should refer to the value of imported goods rather than the total tax collection. US Trade Representative Wright Heze also immediately issued a personal statement saying that "none of the additional tariffs will take effect immediately". In fact, in the past two days, Kudla, Trump’s new chief economic adviser, and other US government officials have been trying to reduce the fear of a trade war in the United States, saying that the United States may still reach an agreement with China. It can be seen that even Trump’s ruling team is weak, contradictory and difficult to justify.

　　Mutual "sanctions" are equal to mutual harm. As we all know, in the era of economic globalization, any form of trade war will fundamentally violate the basic principles of economics, the principle of trade liberalization pursued by the international community and the basic laws of the international economy.

　　Especially in today’s world with rapid development of informationization and networking, international trade is basically trading and developing with each other by giving full play to the comparative advantages or factor endowments of various countries. As the largest developed country in the United States, the service industry has long accounted for more than 70% of its development, while China, as a country with a short start of industrialization, has processing trade as the main form of export, and the use of cheap labor to produce low value-added products is the characteristic of China’s foreign trade. In a certain period of time, the formation of trade imbalance is mainly caused by different international division of labor, different industrial structures and different positions of global value chains, as well as different statistical methods between China and the United States (according to estimates by relevant departments, the trade deficit with China calculated by the United States is basically overestimated by about 20%), so it is unnecessary to "add fists and feet" to solve this problem.

　　"Sanctions" cannot change the development strategy of other countries. From the list of products restricted by the United States to China, it can be seen that the main goal of the United States is not only to solve the trade imbalance problem, but also to attack the strategic goal of "Made in China 2025" that China is vigorously promoting the development of high-tech industries with an eye to the future.

　　The Trump administration’s move can only be an idiotic dream and a bamboo basket. Historically, in the process of Japan’s rapid post-war economic development, Japan-US trade friction has always accompanied it. The trade war between Japan and the United States lasted from the 1960s to the early 1990s. From textiles to steel, from color TV to automobiles, from semiconductors to telecommunications, six major industries were basically fought. To the surprise of the US government, no industry in Japan was repelled in the US-Japan trade war. Except for some products in Japan, which achieved "independent restrictions", Japan not only greatly promoted the structural adjustment of some industries, but also accelerated the "gorgeous turn". For example, in the home appliance industry, major Japanese manufacturers have shifted from consumer-oriented to enterprise-oriented clients; The automobile industry has become more and more brave, and it still occupies the position of an important exporter of family cars in the world. Japan’s falling into the "lost 20 years" trough is not caused by the trade friction between Japan and the United States, but the result of Japan’s own macro-control policy mistakes.

　　The United States has held high the "301" stick for many times in history, but today’s determination and strength of China are destined to make this dispute different from any trade conflict provoked by the United States in the past. The biggest difference between China and other countries is that China has a vast territory and a large population. China is not simply an "export-oriented" country like Japan, but an economy where domestic demand is becoming the main driving force of economic development. China’s industrial transformation and upgrading will not be interrupted by a trade war triggered by the United States, and the development goal of Made in China 2025 will never end because of a trade war. On the contrary, due to external pressure, the government and people of China will make greater efforts to assess the situation and make concerted efforts, so as to make the big ship of China’s economy run more steadily and better in the storm.

　　In response to the US statement, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Ministry of Commerce of China have indicated that China will accompany us to the end and will resolutely fight back at any cost. It can be said that China’s response not only reflects China’s confidence and confidence in the Sino-US trade conflict, but also warns the Trump administration with oriental culture that China is not afraid of any threats, let alone "tariff violence", if China is pushed to the opposite side.

　　(Global Critical Special Commentator,Director, Institute of World Economics, China Institute of International Studies　Jiang yuechun)

　　 On December 18th, the staff raked tomatoes in the greenhouse of vegetable base of Jiacheng Industrial Group in Xinji Town, Changli County, Hebei Province. In recent years, in the process of promoting supply-side reform in Changli County, Hebei Province, around the concept of modern "big agriculture", the new model of "leading enterprises+professional cooperatives+markets+bases+farmers" has been popularized, and the road of agricultural industrialization has been taken to help farmers increase their income. According to reports, at present, the planting area of farmers’ facilities fruits and vegetables in this county is 135,000 mu, sweet corn is 100,000 mu, potato is 120,000 mu, and fish, shrimp and shellfish and seafood are cultivated in shallow sea beaches for 770,000 mu, and the agricultural industrialization operation rate is over 70%. Reporter Yang Shizhen photo

　　 Xinhuanet Beijing December 20 (Reporter Wang Wenpin) The expression "structural reform of agricultural supply side" first appeared at the Central Rural Work Conference at the end of 2015. The Central Economic Work Conference, which closed on December 16, once again mentioned the structural reform of the agricultural supply side, and stressed that increasing the supply of green and high-quality agricultural products should be placed in a prominent position. Looking back on China’s agricultural work this year, various reforms have been steadily advanced and made a strong start.

　　 The reporter learned from the Ministry of Agriculture that China’s grain output in 2016 reached 1,232.5 billion Jin, making it the second high-yield year in history, with sufficient supply of cotton, oil, sugar, meat, eggs, milk and aquatic products. China’s agricultural and rural economy shows a good trend of steady progress and steady progress, showing the characteristics of "two stability and three progress", that is, agricultural production is stable and farmers’ income is stable; The adjustment of agricultural structure has been promoted in an orderly manner, the green development of agriculture has made great strides, and rural reform has progressed steadily.

　　 Optimization of agricultural structure, adjustment by industry, highlighting quality and safety

　　 Since the beginning of this year, the Ministry of Agriculture has focused on nine key points. The first one is to focus on corn, promote the adjustment of planting structure, issue the national planting structure adjustment plan and the agricultural structure adjustment opinions in the farming-pastoral ecotone in the north, reduce the corn area in non-dominant areas such as "sickle bend", and expand the pilot scope of grain-bean rotation and grain-to-feed conversion.

　　 This year is also the first year to implement the new mechanism of "market acquisition" and "subsidy" for corn. The data show that the production of rice and wheat rations in China has remained stable, the corn with high inventory pressure has been reduced by more than 30 million mu, and the soybean area in short supply in the market has increased by more than 9 million mu.

　　 At the same time, this year, the structural adjustment of different industries was carried out. On the one hand, the structural adjustment of animal husbandry was promoted with the focus on pigs and herbivorous animal husbandry, the layout of pig breeding in the southern water network area was optimized, and the transfer of 16 million pigs was reduced. In addition, the dairy industry revitalization conference will be held to lead the dairy industry revitalization with the top 20 dairy industries in China as the leader; Promote the adjustment of fishery structure with the focus on protecting resources and reducing production and increasing income, issue guiding opinions on the transformation of fishery structure, and adjust the structure and regional layout of aquaculture varieties.

　　 In the optimization of agricultural structure, high quality and safety are also highlighted, the quality structure is optimized, and a series of measures are launched on the supply side of green products, which lays a solid foundation for further promoting the supply of green food.

　　 Since the beginning of this year, China has vigorously promoted standardized production, built 800 new fruit vegetable and tea standard gardens and created 6851 demonstration farms for livestock and poultry aquaculture. Solidly carry out the activities of establishing national agricultural product quality and safety counties, and name the first batch of 107 counties (cities) to speed up the construction of the whole process supervision and traceability system. Strengthen the brand building of agricultural products, and newly certify 13,000 products with "three products and one standard" (pollution-free agricultural products, green food, organic products and geographical indications). Strengthen the prevention and control of major animal diseases, and carry out the construction of epidemic-free areas and biosafety isolation areas. There was no major regional animal epidemic in 2016. In this year, the pass rate of routine monitoring of major agricultural products reached 97.5%, an increase of 0.4 percentage points year-on-year.

　　 Rural reform is progressing steadily, broadening the channels for farmers to increase their income.

　　 The reporter learned from the Ministry of Agriculture that this year, China’s rural reform was further deepened, and the introduction of the "separation of three powers" method of rural land opened another major institutional innovation after the household contract responsibility system. The contracted management right of rural land was registered and certified over 800 million mu, and the total number of new agricultural business entities exceeded 2.7 million, accounting for more than 30% of various forms of moderate scale operation area.

　　 At present, 33.3% of the farmland contracted by households in China has been transferred, and 66 million of the 230 million contracted households have more or less transferred their land. Implementing the separation of ownership, contracting right and management right is an institutional arrangement that adapts to the development of productive forces and the current reality. Recently, the general offices of the General Office of the Central Committee of the CPC and the State Council issued the Opinions on Improving the Separation of Rural Land Ownership, Contracting Rights and Management Rights, which is in response to the structural changes in rural agricultural development in China.

　　 The reform of "separation of three powers" in contracted land and "three plots of land" in rural areas and the pilot reform of "two rights mortgage loan" go hand in hand, which also promotes the agricultural population to settle in cities and accelerates the process of transforming new citizens.

　　 The agricultural sector has also made efforts to broaden the channels for farmers to increase their income. On the one hand, it promotes the development of industrial integration, issues opinions on supporting the entrepreneurial innovation of people returning to the countryside to promote the integrated development of rural primary, secondary and tertiary industries with State-run documents, formulates and issues a national plan for the integrated development of agricultural product processing industry and rural primary, secondary and tertiary industries, thoroughly implements the subsidy policy for primary processing of agricultural products, carries out demonstration creation, publicity and promotion of leisure agriculture, rural tourism and important agricultural cultural heritage, and organizes and implements pilot demonstration projects for rural industrial integration.

　　 On the other hand, we will promote poverty alleviation in rural industries, formulate guiding opinions for developing characteristic industries in poverty-stricken areas to promote accurate poverty alleviation, promote poverty-stricken counties to carry out pilot projects for overall and integrated use of financial agriculture-related funds, guide local governments to make good plans, formulate joint actions for developing characteristic agriculture in poverty-stricken areas around Beijing and Tianjin, carry out training for industrial development leaders in designated poverty-stricken areas, select a number of examples and models for accurate poverty alleviation in industries, and lead the poor people in key areas to get rid of poverty and increase their income.

　　 The latest data show that in the first three quarters of this year, the per capita disposable income of farmers actually increased by 6.5%, which was higher than that of urban residents in general, but the growth rate has obviously slowed down compared with previous years.

　　 Promoting Green Development of Agriculture and Improving Comprehensive Production Capacity

　　 Under the guidance of the concept of green development, this year, the agricultural sector has also strengthened its efforts in the treatment of non-point source pollution and outstanding problems in resources and environment. In 2016, the use of pesticides continued to grow at zero, the use of chemical fertilizers was close to zero for the first time since the reform and opening up, and some places achieved negative growth.

　　 Over the past year, China has focused on the goal of "one control, two reductions and three basics" and laid a solid battle for agricultural non-point source pollution control. While making up for the shortcomings of agricultural capital construction and improving the level of agricultural material, technology and equipment, all localities make up for the shortcomings of agricultural ecological environment, strengthen the protection and efficient utilization of agricultural resources, implement ecological protection and restoration projects of landscapes, forests and lakes, expand returning farmland to forests and grasslands, control agricultural non-point source pollution, and promote the green development of agriculture.

　　 According to reports, this year, China has built 11 high-standard water-saving agricultural demonstration zones, 200 demonstration counties for fertilizer reduction and efficiency increase, and 600 demonstration bases for integrated pest control and green prevention and control. Establish animal husbandry green development demonstration counties and fishery healthy breeding demonstration counties, and the proportion of aquatic healthy breeding demonstration areas will reach 51%. Start the establishment of an experimental demonstration area for agricultural sustainable development and explore a new model for agricultural green development.

　　 At the same time, the agricultural sector has carried out pilot projects for comprehensive utilization of livestock manure and pollution control of livestock aquaculture in Dongting Lake area. We will start comprehensive control of agricultural non-point source pollution in typical river basins such as Dongting Lake and Poyang Lake, carry out pilot projects of comprehensive utilization of straw, and continue to promote pilot projects of black land protection in Northeast China, heavy metal pollution in South China and groundwater overexploitation in North China. Start the establishment of an experimental demonstration area for sustainable agricultural development and explore an effective model for green agricultural development.

　　 In terms of improving comprehensive production capacity, we will promote the demarcation of permanent basic farmland and complete the demarcation of permanent basic farmland around 106 key cities. Carry out the whole-process mechanization promotion of major crops, and create a number of full-process mechanization demonstration counties. The comprehensive mechanization rate of major crops cultivation and harvest reached 65%, an increase of 1.2 percentage points over 2015.

　　 Recently, the Ministry of Finance and the Ministry of Agriculture also jointly issued the "Reform Plan for Establishing a Green Ecology-oriented Agricultural Subsidy System", proposing for the first time that by 2020, an agricultural subsidy policy system and an incentive and restraint mechanism oriented to green ecology will be basically established to promote the rational utilization of agricultural resources and ecological environmental protection, so as to further improve the accuracy, directionality and effectiveness of agricultural subsidy policies.

　　 Han Changfu, Minister of Agriculture, said that in order to emphasize the high-quality, safe and green orientation, we should thoroughly implement the zero-growth action of chemical fertilizer agricultural use next year, comprehensively promote the resource utilization of agricultural wastes, earnestly tackle the outstanding problems of agricultural resources and environment, vigorously promote agricultural standardized production, and accelerate the construction of an agricultural subsidy mechanism oriented to green ecology.